Skadar Lake Wineries: The Crmnica Wine Country Above the Lake
Vranac, Krstač and small family cellars — how to spend a day tasting in the hills above Skadar Lake.
Ten minutes uphill from Virpazar is a completely different Montenegro. Terraced vineyards, stone villages, and a wine tradition that goes back to the middle ages. If you like wine at all, spend a half day up here.
The region: Crmnica
Crmnica is a small wine region on the south-eastern slopes above Skadar Lake. Around a dozen villages, mostly small family plots. The signature grape is Vranac — a full-bodied red — and Krstač, a fresh, mineral white. Serious wine, made in serious quantities considering the size.
Wineries worth visiting
Ask locally — the best small producers change year to year and many don’t market. Two reliably open to visitors are Winery Sjekloća (near Podgor) and Winery Marković (near Limljani). Both do tastings by appointment. Expect a €10–15 tasting fee with meat and cheese.
How to get there
By car: 15–25 minutes from Virpazar into the hills — narrow but easy roads. By e-bike: the most enjoyable way, especially if you want to actually drink the wine. Guided e-bike day trips out of Virpazar are exactly built for this.
What to taste
Vranac — the flagship. Ripe cherry, tobacco, medium tannin. Ages well.
Krstač — crisp, unoaked, mineral. Perfect with lake fish.
Kratošija — an older local grape, less common, worth asking for.
Rakija — the plum or grape brandy that ends every meal.
Practical notes
Bring cash for small purchases. Most wineries will sell you a bottle to take away for €8–15. If you fall for a wine, ship it home — several producers work with international couriers now.
Häufige Fragen
Do I need to book a winery visit?+
Yes, at least a day ahead. Small producers open by appointment only.
Can I taste without eating?+
Sometimes, but a tasting almost always comes with cheese, prosciutto and bread — accept it, that’s the point.
Is there a wine bus?+
Not really. A guided e-bike day or a private driver is the way.
Best time of year?+
Late September (harvest) is romantic. Any month with sunshine works.